HIGH LONESOME RANCH, INC
Birch River, West Virginia 26610
Jim & Marcy Lilly hlrinc@yahoo.com
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Spay/Neuter? Puppy Package? Bad Habits? Clicker Training Crate Training? Food? Teaching Manners? Preparing for a Puppy? Toys? Shipping? Vaccinations- The Truth? Introducing new dogs?
We have had the pleasure of enriching the lives of many with our dogs and we hope we can do the same for you. But this is not a "puppy-on-demand" operation and at times there may be a lengthy wait for a puppy. Considering the life-long commitment you are prepared to make by adopting a puppy into your family, such a delay might be considered of minimal consequence.
Read this before buying your puppy
For any questions about your puppy or the puppy's care, contact High Lonesome Ranch/Happy Tails Kennel
1.
Exercise your dog
2.
Raise the dog in love and proper discipline so that he/she grows to be a good
dog citizen - there are many good training programs to guide you.
3.
Maintain proper
weight
4.
The owner agrees to keep, house, and properly care for this dog for the entire
length of his/her life
5.
The caregiver understands and agrees that all responsibility of the dog's care:
feeding, grooming, cleaning up after, exercise, and training are solely their
own responsibility, not that of other family members in the household,
especially children.
6. As an adult you understand that it
is necessary to teach your children responsibility, but please be there for the
children's guidance and not the puppy's neglect.
7.
It is understood by you that this puppy is like a newborn baby , completely
dependent on you for all their needs.
DID YOU KNOW??? Don't pet your puppy to calm him when he's afraid. This will
make him think acting fearfully is correct. Praise him when he is brave.
1.What kind of
crate and what size do we buy?
If the pup is being shipped by
air, or with another ground shipping company ....please use the crate I send with the puppy.
Otherwise, you may purchase crates either enclose plastic, or the wire crates at
either Wal-mart or some of the other suppliers I have listed on my
Favorite Pet Links page.
If we are delivering the puppy, we can also bring you a crate of the correct
size for a mature dog (click here).
2. Crate Training -
Is it mean?
NO......"A Dog is a Den Animal and loves the security of his or hers own little Space. Humans call it a Cage Puppies & Dogs call it a Home." (taken from http://www.baylakedoodles.com) It is the only housebreaking method that we recommend.....and the pups will appreciate having their own private spot where they can go and nap. Be sure not to punish the puppy while in the crate Ex: banging on the cage, yelling at him/her. He can have his own retreat where he can go when he is stressed, tired, or ill.
Dog crates are advantageous
to dogs because:
It will help him learn to control his bowels (dogs do not like to soil their
sleeping area)
He can be taken on family outings instead of being left
behind (provided the car is big enough to accommodate the
crate)
He does not need to be confined to the basement, garage, or
yard when you are away
He can use his crate as a storage area for his toys and
treasures (if there is anything missing in the house, be sure to check the
crate!)
He will feel more secure if he ever needs extended stay at a
veterinarian, or if he needs to fly on an airline
Dog crates are advantageous to people because:
You don't have to worry about what is being soiled or
destroyed while you are away
You can housebreak the puppy quicker and easier
You can effectively confine the puppy at times when he may be
underfoot or overexcited
You can travel with the puppy without getting distracted
driving, or worrying about having the hotel room torn up.
(taken from http://www.weimclubamerica.org/about/mission/mission.html)
"MORE DOGS END UP IN SHELTERS OR GIVEN AWAY BECAUSE THE PUPPY'S PEOPLE FAILED TO CRATE THEM AND THE DOG GOT INTO CHEWING PROBLEMS AND BATHROOM PROBLEMS. AND THE PEOPLE GAVE THE DOG UP OVER FRUSTRATION BECAUSE THEY FAILED TO TRAIN THE PUPPY CORRECTLY -MY PHILOSOPHY IS THAT YOU DO NOT LET A BABY OR SMALL CHILD WALK AROUND THE HOUSE AT NIGHT BY THEMSELVES, AND YOU SHOULD NEVER LEAVE A NEW PUPPY UNATTENDED AT NIGHT OR DAY WHEN YOU ARE GONE." (taken from http://www.baylakedoodles.com)
3.
Toys ....What kind of toys for my new puppy?
Most pet approved toys are fine...puppies usually enjoy the soft and squishy
sheepskin toys with the squeaker inside, Limit chew toys to one or
two generic types so the puppy does not get confused about what is ok to chew,
and what is not ok. Rawhide bones are not recommended, because larger pieces can
be chewed off and swallowed. We like to take an old boot, cut of the eyes
where the laces go through and let the puppy chew on that. Surprisingly, we have
never had a puppy confuse his boot with one of your more expensive shoes.
4. Should we neuter/spay???
Sure!
Why spay:
There are several good reasons to spay your female doggie. Here they are:
For the sake of your Doggie’s health: If left un-spayed, she may well develop
mammary gland cancer, but if you spay her before she goes into heat the first
time at age five or six months, she stands a much lower chance of developing
breast tumors.
Uterine cancer minimized: She also has a vastly reduced chance of developing
uterine cancer or pyometra, in which the uterine area is vastly inflamed. It is
a
common occurrence among older, unsprayed females and is often fatal.
No heat cycles: Female dogs tend to be better pets if they lose the ability of
experiencing estrus (heat cycles) every six-to-nine months. Since heat cycles
result in hormonal changes leading to personality changes, your female can
become
aggressive.
Pregnancies leading to overpopulation: In addition, if your female dog goes into
heat and gets pregnant accidentally, as a pet owner you will be adding to the
vast and uncontrollable pet overpopulation problem.
Why neuter:
Neutering your male dog is loaded with benefits. Here they are:
Healthier pets: This eliminates the possibility of your dog developing
testicular
cancer—the second most common form of canine cancer. Male unaltered dogs above
five years of age are known to suffer from enlarged prostates.
Make better pets: Neutered dogs make for better pets.
Well-adjusted to their environment: If unaltered, your male dog could be
difficult to housebreak. But if you do have him neutered, he will also lose the
desire to roam away from home or to fight with other dogs.
He will also cease the familiar habit of winding his legs on to the leg of your
guests and embarrass you. In addition, they also won’t "get intimate" with your
houseguests legs during a family dinner, or an evening of socializing with
friends.
He may also lose some of the zeal to mark territory by urinating on it, exert
their superiority over the family by biting or humping, etc. He may mark
territory either inside your house or outside.
By neutering him, this habit of marking territory will cease to a fair degree,
though it takes a maximum of 45 days after the surgery for the testosterone to
pass through his body.
They make better housemates: Altered dogs make for better housemates. Neutered
males won’t have the tendency to lift their leg on such objects as couch and
table legs to mark their territory.
Basics of spaying/neutering: Vets usually recommend spaying your female dog at
age six or seven months, while males can be neutered when they are about seven
to
10 months old (some experienced vets will do the surgery on pups as young as 10
weeks old).
Will there be a change in your Doggie’s personality or activity level: Since all
doggies are different, there is no one response to this question. While spaying
or neutering does not cause an overall personality change, it does help reduce
your pet’s irritability and moodiness by reducing its hormones as a result of
the
surgery.
Dogs, after alteration, often become more affectionate companions too.
5.
Is finger chewing ok? After all it is so cute.
No it isn't ok...
Puppies play with other puppies by biting each
other! It is a very natural thing to do. It can be very confusing to a
pup if you scold him for playing the only way he knows how, and then encourage
him to play again.
I have taught puppies and stray dogs to stop nipping and biting "people" by doing what "mom dog" and "littermates" do. Next time he bites or nips you "yelp" in a noticeably loud and high-pitched voice. Usually, the pup will look at you kind of funny, like he doesn't understand, and then proceed to bite you again. This time you "yelp" louder and in a very high pitch, maybe jumping back at the same time as if you're really hurt. Whenever you do this technique, you must always immediately furnish an appropriate chew toy for him to bite and play with. After a half dozen times of this, the pup usually gets the message. But, he is still a puppy, and he will "forget" next time he wants to play and bite again (after all, that's the only way he's played for his whole life!) It will take a week or two until this pup finally "gets it." Some learn much faster, and others more slowly, but this technique has never failed me as long as every person is consistent. That means every time the pup bites, "yelp!" Tell children and visitors to do the same. (Yes, really tell them to do the same, and make sure they do it; maybe they'll learn something in the process). If your puppy or dog reacts in a frightened manner of your yelping, then try it again in a softer, less frightening manner. You do not want to frighten the dog, only let it know that biting too hard hurts.
Grasp the nose and a firm no! Or use your finger and give the nose a flick.
As the pup gets older, if he is not 99% reliable not to bite, after you "yelp," put your hand over his muzzle gently but firmly (sometimes referred to as a nose-hug) immediately after you yelp and when you say "No Bite!" Then immediately give him a chew toy and say "Good Bite!" You always want to end a lesson being taught with praise, that way, your dog will be more willing to learn. This will also teach your dog to go get a chew toy when he gets so excited that he just must bite something.
If these methods fail to work another option you have is to get up, turn your back to your dog and walk away whenever he bites or nips you. No reprimand, no emotion, simply turn your back to your dog immediately after he bites you (the *first* time) and walk away. After about 10 minutes, approach him again. Be sure that you are praising him when he is biting appropriate things and not you. This will teach your dog that he will not receive the attention he desires unless he behaves appropriately.
.
6. Is it OK to let my pup greet me by jumping up on me? No No No!! It is cute for a puppy to try to get close to you to greet you, but a dog over 50 pounds (and most of our dogs will be larger than that) is no fun. Plus, they don't care if they have muddy paws or not. So, stop the jumping immediately. Bend down to greet your puppy and hold him in a sitting position. As he grows older, if he is still jumping on you, lift your knee to block the jump. Do not yell at him as he doesn't understand what you are so upset about. Eventually he will understand jumping is not fun.
MANNERS by Brandy J. Oliver, MA
"Settle Down" "Come" "Stay" "Leave It" Chewing
7. Teaching your dog to "Settle"
We've all been there! Your dog is running around in circles like the Tasmanian Devil and nothing you do or say seems to make a difference. Many times dogs that are uncontrollable or unruly in the house are crated or end up being "put outside." Unfortunately, this doesn't solve the problem, it only postpones their excitement until they're free from the crate, or brought inside the house again. Dogs are social animals, they thrive on social interaction and are usually their happiest when they are included in the daily activities of their "people." Consistently isolating your dog in a crate or in your yard (or doing so for prolonged periods) may lead to a socially starved dog. This isolation can make your dog so overwhelmed when he receives attention or is brought into the house that the same unruly behavior intensifies; thus a vicious circle begins.
One of the most important commands that you can teach your dog is a "Settle" command. It can be taught, learned, and reliably performed at a very young age. It can save your dog from being isolated in a backyard, specific room, or crate and it can help you enjoy your dog, have control of him, and help establish leadership. The Settle command can even be taught before "sit" and will contribute to the bonding of you and your dog.
This command is most easily taught at a very young age, but even old dogs can learn new tricks! So start teaching your puppy or dog the "Settle" command today. If you have a puppy, you may start teaching him as young as 8-10 weeks. Lie your pup on his back gently; if he squirms, try to gently keep him on his back until he relaxes. If he REALLY squirms, and tries to bite, then lie him on his side. Puppies that exhibit biting or nipping behavior when being placed on their backs may grow up to be very dominant dogs. If your puppy exhibits this behavior, it is your responsibility to educate yourself on the special needs and considerations that a dominant dog requires.
Generally, a dominant pup will squirm a lot and maybe try to nip or bite, "mouthing" on your hands as you're restraining him. A submissive dog may squirm a little, but will usually relax quickly and will look away from you. Avoiding eye contact is a submissive gesture, so do not try to make your puppy look at you. In fact it is best if he looks away, this reinforces the pack hierarchy that establishes you as "leader."
While you are gently holding your puppy on his back or side, say "Settle" in a gentle, firm, and pleasant manner. Don't be lovey-dovey with him (even though he'll look so cute). This is teaching a command, not love-play. At the same time, don't scare him into settling by screaming the command. When he squirms, tighten your hold (gently but firmly) and say "Settle" until he relaxes. When he relaxes, say "Good" and loosen your hold. Each time he squirms, tighten your grip and repeat "Settle." Then repeat "Settle" when he relaxes. If you have long hair or floppy sleeves, make sure you are not tickling your dog, and thus making him squirm! Try for 20 seconds of a continuous settle. This may be impossible for the first few times, so 3-5 seconds of a continuous settle is perfectly acceptable, then release him with LOADS of praise. (The praise part is VERY IMPORTANT EVERY TIME.)
8.Teaching your dog to
"Come" is one of the most important lessons she will ever
learn. The sooner you begin teaching "Come" the better chance you have for a
lifetime of reliable recalls. But even old dogs can learn new tricks! Older
dogs, strays, and shy dogs that do not understand or are fearful of the "Come"
command can be reprogrammed for success through time, consistency, and praise.
It takes time to teach "Come." Most puppies will "come" to you whenever you
decide to walk away because they instinctively follow you. A reliable response
to "come," however, usually takes months of consistent and positive
reinforcement. You want your dog to literally stop in her tracks, turn around on
a dime, and happily come running to you whenever the "come" command is given.
This is an end result, so do not expect too much of your puppy or dog too soon.
The easiest way to associate your new puppy or dog with the "come" command is to
begin using it on their first day home! Yes, even at 8 weeks old, you can begin
to use positive reinforcement associated with the "come" command. Whenever your
puppy or dog is already coming to you (on her own), wait until she is about 2-3
feet from you and then say "(Dog's Name) Come!" in a very happy voice. When she
gets to you (about 2 seconds later), hug her, clap your hands, and basically
make a huge fuss over her. This exercise should be practiced frequently and
consistently for 3-5 months (depending on the age and response of your dog).
Then it should be practiced periodically for the rest of your dog's life. This
is a wonderful exercise because your dog will always perform it perfectly! She
will always receive praise because she cannot do it wrong. It is of the utmost
importance that your dog initiates coming to you on her own, so you need to look
for this opportunity, realize it, and then say "Come!" when she's almost at your
feet. If she doesn't "come" after you command her to "come"....then you said the
command too early. You need to wait until she is almost right on top of you!
With this exercise, your dog will learn that "come" is a really good thing.
(After a while, you can lengthen the distance from when you start to say COME,
but be careful and don't push your luck.)
One of the biggest mistakes people make when playing with their dog is chasing
them. Rule number one: if you want a reliable recall, NEVER, EVER, chase your
dog (unless it is a dire emergency). I know your new puppy may look very cute as
she scoots her furry butt around the house while you chase her, but don't. Stop
all chasing where you are the "chaser." Instead, encourage your puppy or dog to
chase you! Teach your dog to play "chase" by you running around the house (or
yard), with your dog chasing you. If your dog will not play, you need to be
creative. Get down on your hands and knees and "play bow" to her, crawl away real
fast then roll on the ground and let her "catch" you. Make it really happy and
fun! Don't use food, use fun. It is important that your dog learns to always
"chase" or "follow" you, and at the same time, she's learning to never run away.
After a few weeks or months, as your dog begins to enjoy the "come" command, you
can start "testing" it as a command. However, you will regress quickly at this
point unless you can back up every "test!" You can back up your "come" command a
few different ways. One way is to periodically put a harness and lead on your
dog and let her drag the lead around (under your supervision). Nonchalantly pick
up the lead (without your dog noticing), then say "(Dog's Name) COME!" in a
happy voice, if she doesn't come on her own, gently tug on the lead to encourage
her. If she still doesn't come, pull her to you while saying COME! COME! in a
very happy voice. When she reaches you (buy gentle force or on her own), give
her loads of praise. I remind you that your dogs' lead is attached to a harness,
not a collar. When you physically pull her to you, you are not choking your dog,
nor causing any discomfort. The harness allows you to pull her at her center of
gravity and induces "force" in the least "forceful" manner possible. Many people
train dogs to "come" by "popping" a choker collar to get their attention. In my
opinion, this is perceived as negative reinforcement for most dogs. I do not
believe negative reinforcement establishes the foundation of trust and respect
between animal and human that is needed for fool proof recalls.
Another way to back up your "come" command is to have someone else "physically
walk" your dog to you when you command her to COME. This is accomplished by
waiting until your dog is next to another family member (on your dogs' own free
will.) Establish communication with the other family member and confirm that
they are ready to "back up" your come command. Then say "(Dog's Name) COME!" in
a happy voice. If your dog comes to you, praise lavishly, if she hesitates,
encourage her by getting on your knees, clap your hands, etc. If she does not
come on her own the other family member (who the dog is right next to) gently
but firmly wraps their arms around the dogs' mid-section and lifts gently,
pushing gently forward, thus "physically walking" your dog to you. Again, this
method accomplishes the goal by moving your dog via your dogs' center of
gravity, not by tugging, pulling, or pushing. The same thing can be accomplished
if your dog is already wearing a harness. If she already has a harness on,
simply grasp the harness at its top center and "help" her along! I have used
this method with shy, fearful, stray dogs. I put a harness on them for most of
the day and it gives me the opportunity to reinforce a positive come command
throughout the day!
Now that you are familiar with the exercises, you must practice them frequently
and consistently. Remember:
1. NEVER, ever chase your dog!
2. NEVER, ever scold your dog when she comes to you.
3. For the first months of practice, and until your dog comes to you reliably,
NEVER command your dog to COME unless you have the lead in your hand to back up
your command (or someone else has their hands on the dog to back up your
command.)
4. If you need your dog for something and you don't have the lead in your hand,
go and get your dog. Don't test the COME command when you are unsure of her
response.
5. Never call your dog using the "come" command, and then ignore her refusal.
Always back up your command! Go and get your dog. As you approach your dog tell
her "STAY!" until you reach her. Then walk her back to the spot you originated
from repeating "COME! COME!" When you get to the spot, praise her for coming.
You must show her that she should have "COME" in the first place. After all,
it's a really good thing!
Do these things for about 3-5 months. During this time, your dog will learn that
the COME command is a wonderful thing! She never does it wrong! She always gets
praised! After your dog repeatedly and thoroughly demonstrates that she
understands the "come" command, you can start slowly testing your dog. When you
test your dog, never tell her to come if you think she won't, always go and get
her instead. Remember, make it easy for her to do good. The only time to tell
her to come when you are unsure of her response is in an emergency. Otherwise,
go and get your dog.
If you have a dog that does not respond well to the "come" command due to
negative reinforcement in the past, change the command to "Here!" or anything
else that you can say in a happy voice with one syllable. Start doing the
exercises mentioned in this article using the new command and you will begin to
build respect, trust, and a reliable recall in your dog.
9.
STAY
Puppies can begin learning short "stays" between 4 and 6 months of age. Begin by
putting your puppy or dog in a "down" position (lying down). Sit next to your
puppy with your hands lightly positioned on his sides/back so that he does not
get up. Do not hold him firmly unless he tries to get up.
Next, put a food treat (small pieces of hot dogs work well) on the floor about 6
inches in front of him so that he cannot reach it. Put the palm of your hand in
front of his face and say "STAY!" Remove your hand from in front of his face,
wait about 3 seconds, then say "OK!" (or whatever your "release" command is).
During all of this time, you should have your other hand lightly on his
side/back to ensure his "down" position.
When you say "OK," release your dog at the same time. When he is eating the food
treat, PRAISE him and tell him what a good dog he is.
Repeat this exercise three times a day for 1-2 weeks. This exercise teaches your
dog the "meaning" of "STAY." He should never be corrected or punished, he should
always BE GOOD and DO GOOD, so be sure to make it impossible for him to fail. By
teaching this way he will also learn to LOVE the "STAY" command.
Somewhere between the first and second week of this exercise, begin lightening
your hold of your puppy during the 3-second "STAY."
The next stage of the exercise involves lengthening the "STAY." You can begin
lengthening the time between your "STAY" command and your release command after
your puppy (or dog) is "staying" on his own for 3 seconds. Begin lengthening the
time to 5 seconds for a day, then 10 seconds for the next, etc. Remember, he
should never be corrected or punished, he should always BE GOOD and DO GOOD, so
be sure to make it impossible for him to fail. If he tries to get up, simply
firmly keep him in his down position and repeat the command "STAY."
Once your dog has mastered the "Stay"
command, you can begin teaching him the "long downstay."
First, put your dog in a downstay before you begin to prepare his meal. He
should be able to see you through the entire preparation of his meal, but should
remain in the downstay. This is an excellent way to begin teaching longer
downstays because the dog is already used to waiting for his meal, and his meal
is a great reward!
It is important for this exercise, and all the others, that you (or someone
else) are able to see your dog at all times. The instant he breaks his downstay,
say "Oops," "Uh-Oh," "wrong," or whatever your command is to let him know he did
not do it right. Then immediately place him back in his downstay. If he breaks
the stay twice in one exercise, tether him for the remaining of the downstay to
reinforce your persistence.
It is also important to realize that your dog is trying to please you, so you
need to make it easy for him to DO GOOD. If your dog is always being tethered,
he is obviously not ready for this stage. Go back to the previous stage, or back
to the basic "Stay" command so that he can DO GOOD and regain his confidence.
After your dog successfully downstays during meal preparation, begin using long
downstays during other times of the day. For instance, put him in a downstay
while you are watching TV. Long downstays can last from 3-30 minutes. Gradually
try longer times, always reverting back to a short duration so that your dog
enjoys the downstay. Also, begin giving treats periodically. Sometimes give a
food treat, other times not, but always give LOADS of PRAISE.
When your dog is accustomed to long downstays with you in his sight, you are
ready to teach him to "STAY" while you go away. It is most helpful if you have a
volunteer to be in the same room with your dog while you go away so they can
reinforce his stay. Begin by putting your dog in a downstay and simply walking
out of the room for about 10 seconds, then walking back into the room and going
about your business for another minute or so, before you release your dog. Over
time, gradually increase the amount of time you are out of the room.
Remember, STAY is a difficult command for an enthusiastic dog! Make it easy for
him to DO GOOD so he can receive lots of praise and he will be eager to please
you.
10. Leave It
The
"Leave It" command is a very useful command to teach your dogs. You can use it
in a variety of ways that are practical, convenient, and sometimes life-saving.
You can start teaching your puppy or dog the first step as early as 4
months old. Your puppy may not understand what you're doing for a few months,
but it will lay a strong foundation for the command. The first step is to put a
new type of food treat on the floor. (Don't use one he's used to, as it may
confuse him to think that "all of a sudden" he's not supposed to have a treat
that he's always been able to have at leisure). Small pieces of cut-up hot dog
work well, as do any other doggie treat that's new to him.
Begin by placing the small treat on the floor and make sure he sees you put it
there. Walk him by the treat (with him on-lead). When he tries to sniff the
treat say "Leave It!" When he looks away from the treat, praise him with pats on
the sides and "GOOD Leave It!" (Depending on your dog, you may need to
physically turn him away from the treat.) Then pick up the treat from the floor,
inspect it, then tell him to sit. When he sits, give him the food treat and say
"GOOD Sit!" Release him and play with him so that he likes this new "Leave It"
command.
As you progress in your teaching, start periodically putting the food treat in
your pocket after inspection, and offering an "old" food treat for the reward
when he sits. This teaches your dog the true meaning of "Leave It" because the
reward does not match what he wanted in the first place. In most instances of
actually using the command this will be the case. After a few weeks of
practicing, start using the command whenever you deem appropriate. Some
instances may occur when he finds garbage on the ground, or when he wants to say
hello to an aggressive dog (or unknown dog). In any case, ALWAYS follow the
"Leave It" command with praise! "Leave It" is a difficult thing for a dog to do,
and he will be more willing to respond to your command if he knows what a GOOD
thing "Leaving It" is!
11. CHEWING ALL
puppies chew. It is what they do naturally. They chew on mom, on each other, and
just about anything that fits in their mouth that doesn't taste bad. They
"explore" a new item by putting it in their mouths and taking a good bite into
it. Chewing is normal to them. It is we "people" who view it as "bad" or
"destructive." Therefore it is our responsibility to teach our pups what is
appropriate to chew, and what is not.
First of all, supply your puppy with a variety of chew toys. There is a very
good selection at DogToys.com. He needs chew toys that outlast his teeth (rubber
"Kong" toys, some nylabones, hard dog bones, etc.), and others that he can
really get his teeth into (stuffed toys, rawhides, real sticks, etc.). Add some
squeaky toys, balls, tug-o-ropes, and whatever else you think your pup will
enjoy that won't hurt him. Some of the things my dogs thoroughly enjoyed when
they were puppies were cardboard boxes, ice cubes, apples, carrots, empty milk
cartons, empty ice cream cartons, and just about anything that we would've
thrown away. If it wasn't going to hurt them, we'd let them chew on it for
awhile before we threw it out.
Now that you have lots of toys and a good variety, put all of the non-perishable
ones in a "toy box" for your pup. The toy box can be made out of anything;
however, expect that it will also be chewed! I use a "kitty bed" as a toy box.
The fabric is like a stuffed animal and I can throw the whole thing in the
washer. (Don't use the kind that is made of foam, unless you like cleaning up
shredded bits of chewed-up foam!) You can find one at DogToys.com in their
"Puppy Stuff" section.
Now that you're prepared, you must teach your pup how much fun his toy box
really is, that it's more fun than shoes, or socks, or table legs. You begin by
hiding a favorite toy or a food treat in the middle of the toy box, and then
bring him over to the toy box saying "Go Look in Your Toy Box!" (you are
teaching him a command that he will inevitably learn in a few months, as long as
you say it consistently and happily.) Start rummaging through the toy box
yourself, with your hands, encouraging him to look at (and put in his mouth)
things that you pull out. If he starts rummaging himself praise him and be real
happy about it. When he finds his favorite toy play with him with it, if he
finds a food treat, praise him while he eats it.
Always keep his toy box in an accessible place (you can keep it in your bedroom,
but if he chews the legs on the coffee table you may need more than one toy
box.) If you want to keep your table legs you've got to think more puppy-like!
If he chews the coffee table legs, put the toy box by or under the coffee table.
You want to make it as easy as possible for him to do good! Which also means,
don't put every toy in his toy box. Depending on the chewing ability of your
pup, you may need to strewn out a lot of chew toys and have a reserve in his toy
box. Put chew toys where your dog most often chews inappropriate items. If he
chews pillows, have at least 3 different types of chew toys for him to discover
before he gets to the pillows. If he steals shoes from the closet, keep your
closet door closed! If you can't seem to manage closing the door, than put chew
toys outside the closet so he'll find them before the shoes. (Of course, do not
use "old shoes" as chew toys unless you want your expensive ones chewed up too.)
Your pup now knows he has a toy box, he's got plenty of toys in it, and there
are other toys around the house for him to stumble across and chew. Now you get
to start teaching. Don't discipline your dog for chewing something you deem
inappropriate after the fact. After all, you weren't there to tell him it was
inappropriate, and it was really good to him! If you find your favorite book
torn to shreds, take it as a reminder not to leave it on the floor (or on the
table that the pup can reach) next time. You must catch the pup in the act. So
next time you see him running down the hall with your shoe, or chewing anything
inappropriate, quickly and in a surprising manner "swoop" it out of his mouth.
The goal is not to hurt him, it is to surprise him. Say "No Chewing" and very
quickly replace the inappropriate item with an appropriate chew toy, (another
reason why it helps to have them all around the house.) Give him his chew toy
and when he takes it say "Good Chewing!!!" Give him LOTS of Praise!!! If there
is not an appropriate chew toy around, (and/or after he begins understanding a
little) you can run him over to his toy box after the "No Chewing" command and
say "Go Look in your Toy Box"! Make it a big game, help him find a good toy and
give lots of Praise. Remember that you are teaching your pup a lesson every time
he chews something inappropriate, so always end your teaching lesson with
PRAISE. You will have a dog more willing to please you
So, you've done everything right, you
have a very smart puppy, and he is just a Chew Maniac - he chews all his toys,
but isn't satisfied for very long and keeps looking for more interesting items!
Take his Kong toy, or bone, or ball, or anything that has a hole through it, and
put peanut butter inside the hole (some people prefer Cheeze Whiz.) This is very
useful when you leave the house because it keeps him busy for quite awhile,
lessens anxiety, and tires his "chew muscles" out a little bit. Another good
time to give him the "find the PB" treat is when he has a usual Chewmania time.
I had a pup that wanted to chew until kingdom come in the early evening. I don't
know why. He just had a lot of "chew" energy then, I guess. If your puppy is
overzealous, first exercise him!!!! Get him tired physically, then tire out his
chew muscles. Your puppy will appreciate softer items around 5 or 6 months when
he will be teething: stuffed toys, cardboard, and also ice cubes help numb the
gums and can lessen the teething pain. Another numbing chew toy can be a cloth
soaked in water, twisted, then frozen. He may also experience a renewed interest
in chewing around 8, 9, or 10 months. This is usually when his last molars are
coming in. The problem here is that your dog may be much bigger and stronger
than when he was only 5 or 6 months old! If you took the time to teach him the
appropriate things to chew when he was younger, it will be much easier on you
(and your furniture). If your 8-10-month-old dog decides that furniture legs are
the new thing to chew, I suggest you block access to them if possible, and bring
in some big sticks (yes, real sticks) the fat kind that he can't break in two.
I've found that this seems to get most people through this period quite well.
You must be willing, however, to clean up shredded sticks! I opt for that over
furniture any day!
In order to prepare for your puppy, there are several things
you need to do…
I. Buy Supplies
A. You will need puppy food
It is best if the puppy continues on the same diet he was on
before you acquired him, at least for the first few weeks. This prevents
digestive upsets. If you plan to change the brand of food, do it gradually.
Ask the breeder how often to feed the puppy. The traditional
schedule for young puppies is four times a day. As the puppy grows, this can be
reduced to three times a day and then two times a day.
If the puppy is on a premium brand of puppy food you probably
will not need to supplement, unless under a veterinarians orders. Excessive
vitamins can be harmful to a growing puppy.
B. You will need food and water bowls
Preferably ones that are not easily tipped over
C. You will need a crate
D. You will need a collar, lead, and
identification tags
E. You will need toys for the puppy to chew on
F. You will need nail clippers, a nail file, or a sander such as a Dremmel tool,
and styptic powder
Nail files and sanders are recommended over clippers,
because it is easier to sand down to the quick rather than guess where the quick
is, and cut. Styptic powder will help stop the bleeding incase the vein is
accidentally cut.
G. You will need a pooper scooper
It is certainly no fun stepping in the stuff!
H. You will need a puppy proof garbage pail
This may be the hardest task…Let me know if you find one!
Another option may be to lock the garbage pail in an area the puppy/dog can't
get into.
II. You will need to set the ground rules
It is much easier to prevent problems than to fix problems
with this particular breed. Therefore rules need to be set ahead of time. For
example, will the full-grown dog be allowed on the furniture; or will he be
allowed to sleep in bed with you? Set the rules up ahead of times and be
consistent in enforcing them. Everyone in the family needs to use the same
commands and consequences to enforce the rules.
III. You will need to clean the house and the yard area
When the puppy enters your home there should not be any small
objects within his reach that he can swallow. Small hard objects, such as Lego
blocks can perforate his intestines, and small soft objects such as panty hose
can block his intestines. Both conditions can be fatal.
Make sure houseplants, many of which can be poisonous, are
out of the puppy's reach.
Make sure the yard is safe as well, and the fence is in good
repair. If you have a swimming pool in your yard, be sure to supervise the puppy
until he learns to swim, and learns where the steps are. Gardens will need to be
puppy proofed (a difficult task indeed!)
IV. You will need to find a Veterinarian
Ask around for recommendations on a good veterinarian in your
area. The veterinarian should not be overworked, and
should take the time to answer questions. Make sure you have the number of a
local after hours clinic in case of emergencies, and keep a basic first aid kit
handy.
V. Make sure you have a good sense of humor and an abundance of patience.
The subject for your mission can be a real rascal at times.
Good Luck!!
(taken from http://www.weimclubamerica.org/about/mission/mission.html)
About Vaccinations: (click here for more information on the following paragraph) "Veterinarian Christina Chambreau, an holistic practitioner from Sparks, Maryland states that there are "all kinds of problems with vaccinations and they are probably the worst thing that we do for our animals". Her belief is that by injecting vaccine into an animal we are effectively by-passing the body's normal lines of defenses and presenting to the animal foreign material in an unnatural manner. Repetitive vaccinations, she contends, rather than providing extra assurance that an animal will mount high levels of antibodies, actually has an adverse effect on the animal's overall ability to achieve a healthy balance within its disease fighting talents."...." Will a vaccine given to a stressed animal be as effective over a long period of time as the same vaccine given to a normal, healthy dog? The correct answer is: Maybe and maybe not. Each individual is so unique that no prediction can ever hope to be 100 percent accurate for any dog, cat or human when we are talking about what a vaccine will do. And that's a fact that everyone agrees upon!..." (This article is well worth reading - please check this out)
Another site on Vaccinations Quite sad that possibly there are Veterinarian who push unnecessary vaccinations for financial gain
